How to Attach Table Top to Pedestal Base

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If you want to make a pedestal table, you may be wondering how to attach the top to the base. There are many ways to attach the top to the base, including using Dovetail cleats, Figure 8 fasteners, or expansion brackets. In this article, you will learn how to attach the top to the pedestal base. Before you begin, you should first read over the following tips. If you are unsure of your skill level, you can always ask a professional.

Dovetail cleats

The table’s legs are usually cut from 1/2″ finished thickness stock with a 3/4″ cross brace that mates with 1.5″ tenons on the top of the pedestal base. The cross brace and the cleat are secured with 1/4″ x 20 tpi knurled thumb screws. Afterward, dovetail ways are cut into the underside of the table top. Then, the sides are leveled and screwed to the table top with 1/4″ x 20 tpi knurled thumb screws.

To attach the tabletop to the pedestal base, Mario Rodriguez first rips a 3-inch-wide hardwood strip with his tablesaw at a 15-degree angle. Then, he fits half of the dovetail cleat into the tabletop. The other half is screwed to the apron. Small tables can be attached at each end, while larger ones require the center support.

Another method for attaching a tabletop to a pedestal base is to use dovetail cleats. These are pieces of dovetail that keep the tabletop flat and free from wobbles. The holes in dovetail cleats are oval-shaped and orientated in the direction of movement. You can also glue them to the apron and screw them into place.

The support system on the pedestal base attaches to the table top with machine bolts. Because the table top and the pedestal are curved, the base and the table top must follow the curve. A template is used to produce the curve. This template then becomes the “master” template and is used to bend the pieces. The table top measures 72 inches in length. Glue them together at the half-lap joint.

Figure 8 fasteners

You may want to use fasteners that are shaped like Figure 8s to attach your table top to your pedestal base. The fasteners screw into the tabletop and apron and pivot, allowing the wood to move freely. These fasteners work well for smaller tables, but thicker ones may require longer screws. If you do choose to use fasteners, make sure to carefully measure the height of your tabletop before you begin.

Use a Forstner bit to drill a 5/8-inch mortise, and then countersink a small pilot hole. Be sure to place the fasteners slightly offset from the cross grain of the tabletop. Do not screw the fasteners too tightly, as the wood will move during construction. Make sure that the fasteners are evenly spaced around the base, as wood will shift and shrink as they are attached to the pedestal base.

To install a figure 8 fastener, you need to remove a piece of the pedestal base. The tabletop should sit flush with the base surface. If the tabletop does not fit snugly into the base, it will fall off. If the tabletop fits snugly, you can try knocking off the ears of the fastener with a chisel. Next, you will need to drill a hole with a forstner bit that is the same size as the recess. Make sure to leave a pilot hole.

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If you’re not comfortable cutting grooves in the top of your table, you can try using a metal cleat. They have an indentation that will accommodate the screw head. Also, they can be loose enough to pivot. Once you have screwed the base, you can then put the top on top. Then, you can paint it or stain it. Be sure to match the finish on both surfaces.

Expansion brackets

Attaching a tabletop to a pedestal base is a relatively easy process and only requires a few supplies. Here’s how. To begin, measure the pedestal’s diameter and mounting holes to determine the right placement of the expansion brackets. Once you’ve marked these points, drill a hole through the pedestal’s mounting plate and then attach the tabletop. Make sure not to drill too deep.

To attach the table top to the pedestal base, drill a couple of holes in the apron. Using a forstner bit, drill a hole in the apron and then screw a figure 8 fastener through it. Then, install the table top onto the DIY table and attach the top with screws through the figure eight fastener. Vineta at The Handyman‘s Daughter provides a step-by-step guide.

After making the holes larger, insert the metal expansion brackets through the tabletop. Screw the tabletop to the pedestal using large-headed screws. Remember that you can tighten the screws to a point where they hold the top in place, but let the wood pull. Make sure the screws are tightened to prevent the tabletop from shifting. If the tabletop moves, remove the screws and attach the top to the base.


The process of attaching a table top to a pedestal base is fairly straightforward. Mix a one-to-one ratio of Table Top Pro and epoxy. The epoxy should be completely cured after 24 hours and should be fully set before using a power drill. While mixing the epoxy, be sure to use a slow speed to prevent air bubbles. Allow the table to sit in its cup for five to 10 minutes before using a drill attachment.

You will need a table base of your choice. A simple coffee table base would work just as well as a slim console table. If you’re new to this process, you may want to try making a small version first, so that you can familiarize yourself with the process. Once you’ve mastered this, you can move on to a larger table. Once you’re confident with the process, you can apply epoxy to attach the table top to the pedestal base.

Once you’ve drilled the pilot holes, it’s time to attach the tabletop to the pedestal. You can also use construction adhesive or one-inch gold construction screws. The screws should fit the size of the tabletop’s holes. Make sure to use the correct size of screws to avoid screwing the tabletop too deeply. Also, keep in mind that the tabletop must be at least one inch thick, so you should select screws that have the same diameter as the tabletop.

After preparing the surface of the pedestal, you can begin applying the Penetrating Epoxy. Then, you’ll need to sand the edges of the wood slab with a random orbital sander. It is important to ensure that the live edge of the wood slab is lightly scuffed. The sanding process should be done thoroughly and evenly. The epoxy will cure overnight.

Lag bolts

Pedestal tables rely on a center post to support the table top. The legs splay out 90 degrees at the top. Pedestal tables require adequate fasteners to attach the top to the pedestal base. Lag bolts are one popular type of fastener for pedestal table tops. These bolts are known for their strength and gripping ability. If lag bolts do not seem to hold, you can try adding braces to the base of the table.

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First, lay the 1×12’s out on a flat surface. Make sure the edges of the table top are angled at the bottom so you can attach the legs later. Next, cut four pieces of border lumber to the same width as the table top. This piece should be approximately 34 1/2 inches wide. Cut the remaining 1×12 pieces to the same length and width. Screw the legs to the legs with two 1/2 ” screws. Then, connect the table top to the legs with the 1×3 cross pieces.

Before installing the screws, consider the thickness of the wood. Softer woods compress under the screw. Harder woods withstand the pressure better and the screws often come off. If you are using a kit with a softer wood like pine, choose a harder wood such as hickory. The screws should be long enough to secure the table top to the base. This step may require you to use longer screws.

Next, attach the hanger bolts. These screws are the last step. They attach the table top to the pedestal base. Using metal nots helps with this step and can be removed once you are finished with the assembly. Lag bolts for attaching table top to pedestal base

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s written by Itamar Ben-Dor, who has 25 years of experience in renovations, carpentry, locks, creation, landscaping, painting, furniture construction, and furniture renovation, works with concrete, plumbing, door repair, and more.

Itamar Ben-Dor has been in the home improvement business for over 25 years. Itamar Ben-Dor is a jack of all trades. He's worked in the renovation field for years, doing everything from locksmithing to carpentry. He's a small repairs specialist. But his true passion lies in furniture construction and renovation - he loves seeing old pieces come back to life with some new woodwork or a fresh coat of paint.

He has taken courses on many topics in these fields at professional colleges in Israel. Over the years, Itamar has also become quite skilled in gardening, carpentry, and renovations. He's worked on projects of all sizes, from massive renovations to small repairs. No job is too big or too small for him!

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