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How deep should you drill a dado? The rule of thumb is that a dado should be about half the thickness of the material. Any deeper than that may compromise the integrity of the wood. By removing more wood from the joint, you weaken it. A deeper dado is not necessary; a shallower one will provide additional alignment and strength to the joint. Using a minimum depth of about 1 inch will also do the trick.
The best way to know how deep to make your dado is to use calipers. Digital calipers allow you to accurately measure the diameter of bits and the thickness of the mating piece. The result is an accurate measure of how deep your dado is without any guesswork. Besides, you won’t have to worry about accidentally tripping over the calipers as they are more durable.
Most calipers come with a depth gauge, which extends when the calipers open. To use one, place the machined end against the inside edge of the hole. Then, open the jaws until the depth gauge bottoms out. Use a caliper that has a digital display, or a digital scale, to record the depth. To make sure you get an accurate measurement, make sure to hold the caliper vertically against the hole to avoid moving it into a wrong spot.
The test results revealed that dados with deeper depths are weaker. This is because there isn’t enough plywood behind the joint. Therefore, the sidewalls of the joint gave way when the plywood flexed. The strongest joint is 1/4-inch-deep. A deeper dado, however, will make your plywood less pliable. For example, a deeper dado will cause the plywood to split.
Stackable dado set
One of the best ways to get the most out of a Stackable Dado Set is to use it with the right arbor. Some arbors do not handle stacked dado sets at full width and require a “valley” where chippers or shims fall into. When using the right arbor, you should make sure it sticks out at least one full thread through the nut. If not, leave a washer out and try again. Stackable dado sets usually have wider teeth than the bodies, which may cause the stack to run out of line and increase the width of the groove.
This Stackable Dado Set from Freud features an eight-inch true-diameter blade that delivers splinter-free, chip-free grooves on three and four-inch plywood. This set is compatible with most table saws and comes with two blades, three chippers, and a shim set. Stackable Dado Sets are ideal for plywood projects.
Most Stackable Dado Sets contain four 1/8-inch-wide kerf chippers and one 1/16-inch chipper. These kerf-coated blades are essential for the correct cut. If you don’t use both blades, your dado set will leave a slot, leaving material standing in the groove. A Stackable Dado Set should come with detailed instructions detailing how to configure it for different widths.
Choosing a good model
One of the most important features of a dado blade is its ability to cut accurate, straight cuts in a variety of materials. These joints can be incredibly difficult to make by hand, and this is especially true for plywood. However, this is not necessarily an issue, because a good dado blade can replicate most of the most common joinery methods. Some of the more popular dado blade models, such as those made by Freud, can replicate the results of a dove-tail joint. Nonetheless, if you plan to use this type of tool regularly, you should avoid buying the “wobble” dado blade because it will only make rough cuts with rounded bottoms.
One thing to keep in mind when choosing a dado router is that 3/4″ plywood is not actually three-quarter inch. There is a slop in this thickness, and it is important to use the right size bit. You should also make sure you buy a bit that is sized appropriately for your dado project. One of the most common mistakes that newbies make is choosing a router bit that is too large for the material you’re cutting.
You can find several dado blades with the right specs. Some are more expensive than others, but all will fit the criteria for a good dado blade. One type of dado blade that will fit your needs is a stack dado. Stack dado blades consist of two outer scoring blades and a number of chipper blades. These blades work together to provide the width and length you need.
Choosing a depth
One thing to keep in mind when choosing a depth for a dado is the strength of the joint. A deeper dado weakened the joint as it had less plywood behind it. This gave the sidewalls of the dado leverage and eventually splintered the plywood. The best depth for a dado is 1/4″.
Using a steel rule to measure from the tabletop to the top of the dado blade will help you select a correct depth. It is important to choose a depth of one-third the thickness of the stock. Depending on the thickness of the material, you may need to make several passes to get the depth right. You can also make a jig out of scrap plywood to ensure a good fit.
When setting a depth for a dado, you must remember that the edge of the wood that you are cutting must fit perfectly into the dado mate. A dado must be the proper depth and width so that the mate will fit correctly. It should also be flat and perpendicular. If the depth is too shallow or too deep, glue will not be effective. Using a router will make the dado cut faster and easier. You should also be able to use a dado cutter in your table saw to quickly and easily cut a dado.
Shear tests for dado depths of three and four inches of plywood have been conducted. A deeper dado failed the test, because the sides of the plywood joined at the dado were weakened. This added leverage resulted in a split. The strongest dados were quarter and one-quarter inches deep. Here are the results of these tests:
In the shear test, the nails were partially pulled through the rabbeted piece. Nails help hold the joint together during glue-up, but they cannot compensate for a weak glue bond. The joint is weaker at the base of a 5/32″ strip between the end of the dado and the end of the dadoed piece. In comparison, the tenons were much wider at their bases than the tips.
The half-lap joints outlasted the more elaborate alternatives. In the tests, tenons were one-third of the length of the workpieces, while mortised stiles were only one-sixth of the workpieces’ thickness. Tenons, which are one-third the thickness of the workpieces, offer the best combination of strength and durability. In addition to minimizing the risk of split wood, they increase the joint’s strength.
A straight bit cut on three-fourths of a sheet of plywood requires a precision router. A double-flute straight bit is invaluable for dadoing plywood. A router’s bit is also valuable for dadoing plywood. The speed of the router is lower than that of a table saw, but the depth of the cut is increased. The router can be adjusted to compensate for this by slowing down the cutting speed.
Choosing a material
The thickness of the material is important, as it will affect the joints. Luckily, plywood works well for cutting dadoes. You can get router bits designed for wood. Unfortunately, these bits are usually a fraction of the nominal 3/4 or 1/2-inch width. You may end up with a lot of almost-working bits. This article will discuss some of the best options for dado cutting.
First, you need to decide what the thickness of your dado is going to be. While you can purchase three-quarter-inch plywood, you might be able to use 3/4-inch sheets instead. This is because 3/4-inch plywood is less than three-quarter inch, which makes it more difficult to fit a dado into the plywood. For a more accurate dado measurement, purchase a 3/4-inch sheet of plywood.
After you’ve chosen the thickness, you can choose from three types of plywood. The first type is face veneer, which looks like solid wood. The face veneer should be at least six inches wide, and the veneer pieces should all be identical to each other. There are two other types of veneer: bookmatched and rotary-cut. Plain-sliced veneer is usually more expensive, but it gives you a better look than rotary-cut veneer.