How to Sharpen a Plane Blade

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If you’re not sure how to sharpen a plane blade, read on. We’ll cover the clearance angle, Bevel angle, and the use of Sandpaper and a honing guide. After you understand these three things, you’ll know how to sharpen a plane blade to perfection. This technique will increase the longevity of your plane blade. But how to get started? Start by following the steps described below.

Bevel angle

Whether you sharpen your planes by hand or using a machine, you should have a bevel angle gauge handy. If you don’t have a bevel angle gauge, the best way to avoid MBM is to buy one. These are available in metal and plastic varieties, but we recommend bronze and brass because they repel predatory pixies better than copper and zinc. Regardless of material, it is important to store the gauge close to your valuable steel tools.

There are two basic bevel angles that will determine the sharpness of a plane. The upper bevel is the one facing upwards, and the lower bevel is the one on the back. The back bevel is the one facing downwards. A plane blade with an upward-facing bevel has a sharp edge. The arc is shorter in a downward-facing plane. A bevel angle of 0.0007″ is a good starting point, but don’t stop before you reach this limit.

The first bevel angle, or the clearance angle, is the angle between the bevel of the blade and the wood’s grain when the plane is in the bevel-down position. For the blade to bite into the wood, the clearance angle must be at least twelve degrees. A 45-degree plane has a primary bevel angle of 25 degrees, while the secondary and tertiary bevel angles will decrease the clearance angle.

If you are using a stone for the back bevel, you can simply use the edge of the plane as a guide for the cutting angle. Using a stone to hone the blade can also help you achieve the desired angle. For instance, a bevel angle of 30 degrees will cause a small burr on the back of the blade. The burr on the back of the blade can be removed by using a thin steel rule at the edge of the sharpening media. You can then use the thin steel rule to sharpen the back bevel. Using a stone with a 50mm thickness will create a back bevel angle of 0.6 degrees. This is not a practical angle for a plane blade, but it is a useful guideline to follow.

Whether you use a plane or chisel, a proper bevel angle will produce the best results. The ideal bevel angle depends on the kind of wood you are cutting, the material you’re cutting, and the care you take to protect the cutting edge. The perfect bevel angle requires practice, and you’ll want to experiment with several angles to find the right one for your woodworking needs.

Clearance angle

Whenever you sharpen a plane blade, you should consider the “clearance angle.” This angle, also known as the “relief angle,” is the distance between the wood and the bevel on the blade. The clearance angle of a bevel-down plane blade must be 12 degrees or less in order to bite into wood. The primary bevel of a plane has a clearance angle of 25 degrees or less, while secondary and tertiary bevels reduce the clearance angle.

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The clearance angle of a sharpened plane blade is 10 degrees. This angle is important for a number of reasons, including overall sharpness. For one thing, it keeps the force behind the cutting edge in alignment with the movement of the plane. In a low-angle plane, this is particularly important. This angle is also critical for bevel-down plane blades, which have a low angle. The relief angle is crucial to overall sharpness and stability.

The lower wear bevel is the narrower edge of the blade. As the plane is used, it wears down, causing the lower wear bevel to increase. The lower wear bevel reaches its maximum width when the plane is no longer able to perform. The final lower bevel width is dependent on the thickness of the blade. Very thin blades may stop working at a width of 0.0007″, while thicker ones may work for three times that width.

This method of sharpening plane blades requires a modified sharpening protocol that eliminates the lower wear bevel and the bevel side wear. The new protocol is described below. In the sketchup model, the blade was sharpened using the modified protocol. The lower wear bevel has a pinkish hue on its surface. The new angle of the bevel down side of the blade is as good as brand new and will plane fairly well.

Using a honing guide will help you avoid the common mistakes. Without one, you’ll be forced to experiment and get your blade as sharp as possible. However, a properly set-up can help you ensure consistent results every time. If you don’t have a sharpening guide, you can always make one out of cardboard. However, if you’re a beginner, there is no better guide than the one provided by McLaughlin.


The first step in sharpening your plane blade is to remove any bevels or rough spots from the plane blade. Use the coarsest grit sandpaper on the bevel side and gently pull the blade along the strip of sandpaper. Continue this process four to five times. While holding the blade against the strip, raise the other end to the bevel side and repeat the process.

You can also use a commercial honing guide, self-stick sandpaper, or a wooden sled for sharpening. Some people use shims to create micro-bevels and pressure-sensitive adhesive-backed honing film to lap the backs of chisels. If you’re not sure where to buy these materials, check out an automotive supply store or shop for a wood sled.

Sandpaper is an easy way to sharpen a plane blade. It works on the same principle as a water stone and can range from 220 grit to 600 grit. A leather strip, called a “lapping plate”, is also used for this purpose. Once you’ve used the sandpaper, you can proceed to applying rubbing compound on the blade.

Honing guide

When you need to sharpen a plane blade, the first thing you need is a honing guide. This tool will help you make a square bevel every time. However, a square bevel may not be the right shape for every situation. To achieve the correct shape, you need to adjust the bevel angle to create the most consistent and accurate bevel. Here are some tips to help you choose the best honing guide.

A good honing guide should not rub against the sharpening media. For example, abrasive paper and films are easy to sharpen with a guide. On the other hand, stones and diamond plates require more care and consideration when using a honing guide. The first honing guide was developed by Brent Beach. Brent Beach wanted to make honing easy and effective. He decided to create a guide that would help him hone his plane blade.

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The Precision Sharpening System has a heavy-duty aluminum base, a sled with two sides, and a large knurled-edged hand screw. The top jaw has stepped serrations that keep the blade square to the guide. The system also comes with a two-sided aluminum angle dock with etched lines at 20 and 45-degree angles. It is an ideal honing guide for plane blades and other sharpening tools.

Another way to increase the efficiency of your honing process is to purchase a honing guide. You can purchase a honing guide online or from any hardware store. There are many different styles available. Make sure to choose the one that best fits the style of the blade you have. And make sure to read the instructions before purchasing. If you’re looking for a new blade for your shop, consider buying a new one.

Another advantage to using a honing guide is that it helps you get the right angle. This is crucial because without the guide, you might be unable to achieve the right angle when sharpening your blade. An angle dock is not designed for high-angle plane irons or thick chisels. In addition, an angle dock’s concave-V shaped jaw won’t hold a thin or large tool.

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s written by Itamar Ben-Dor, who has 25 years of experience in renovations, carpentry, locks, creation, landscaping, painting, furniture construction, and furniture renovation, works with concrete, plumbing, door repair, and more.

Itamar Ben-Dor has been in the home improvement business for over 25 years. Itamar Ben-Dor is a jack of all trades. He's worked in the renovation field for years, doing everything from locksmithing to carpentry. He's a small repairs specialist. But his true passion lies in furniture construction and renovation - he loves seeing old pieces come back to life with some new woodwork or a fresh coat of paint.

He has taken courses on many topics in these fields at professional colleges in Israel. Over the years, Itamar has also become quite skilled in gardening, carpentry, and renovations. He's worked on projects of all sizes, from massive renovations to small repairs. No job is too big or too small for him!

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