How to Use a Planer As a Jointer

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If you’re wondering how to use a planer as t a jointer, you’ve come to the right place. This article contains tips to reduce snipe and chip-out on your jointer. In addition, we’ll cover how to orient the board so the knives rotate in the same direction as the slope of the grain. You’ll be surprised to learn how simple this process can be!

Using a planer as a jointer

Using a planer as a joiner is a good way to create a perfectly squared board, as the blade can remove wood from both sides of the board. However, it is not possible to create a perfectly squared board with the jointer alone, which requires a thickness planer. A thickness jointer is required to achieve a perfectly squared board, since it will almost always be warped or tapered.

Using a planer as a joiner is a common DIY technique, but you can use a jointer as well. The main difference between a jointer and a planer is that a jointer is a machine that flattens a piece of wood, while a planer uses a blade that sits above the table. A jointer has a blade that slides across the board, while a planer’s cutter head is located above. A jointer has a mechanism that forces wood flat against the table, while a planer’s cutter head sits above the workpiece. The difference between a planer and a jointer is that the electric planer has a blade that is located under the workpiece, whereas a rotary jointer has a cutter head that is mounted above

A planer has many uses and is the best tool to use to produce an even thickness along the length of a workpiece. Using a planer as a jointer is useful for making the smoothest cuts, ranging from a simple taper to a door hanging. In fact, most bench-mounted bases feature an adapter for jointing boards and hold the planer in an inverted position.

Using a jointer is a great way to create a smooth edge on a board that was shaped by warps. The blade makes one pass across the board, removing high spots and leaving a flat, even surface. Here are some tips for using a jointer effectively:

Ways to reduce chip-out

There are a few ways to minimize chip-out when using a planer for jointing, but the key is to be aware of the causes. Too much pressure, board defects, or out-of-alignment tables can all contribute to uneven cuts. Keeping the number of passes and the depth of cuts to a minimum will help you avoid these issues.

First, pay attention to the grain of your lumber. Planing against the grain can create a huge amount of chip-out. Make sure to cut with the grain if possible. If you plan against the grain, the wood will travel into waste wood instead of the grain. The resulting hole will be very small. Using the wrong blade can cause chip-out.

Always feed the wood through a benchtop planer with smooth surfaces first. Feed a small amount of wood off both sides of the board with every 1/32 inch pass. Snippe is a common planer scratch and can be prevented by fastening the wood down with pressure rollers. The resulting scratch will be much smaller than the actual amount of chip-out.

Another common cause is a worn bed plate. If the plate is too worn, the lumber will have ripples in it. In addition, a worn bed plate can lead to chattering. You’ll need to sand the rippled lumber after the planer cuts it. If this is the case, it’s likely the bed rollers are not properly set.

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To minimize chip-out, cut your stock at an angle. Use a stop block to support the stock as you make the cut. You can also use an extra-long fence extension to support the stock while making taper cuts. You can also adjust the stop block to make it suitable for the taper cut. If your planer is not capable of supporting the whole stock, adjust the stop block to the angle you desire.

The best way to minimize snipe is to give your boards an extra five inches of length when you plan them. Afterwards, you can cut off this excess length. You can also minimize snipe by feeding your boards end-to-end. In this way, you can make sure that your cabinetry fits snugly against the walls. A power planer will also help you chamfer posts and smooth lumber.

Lighter passes reduce snipe

The best way to minimize snipe when using a planer to create joints is to set the table to a slower feed rate on the final pass. Lighter passes will help reduce snipe because you will be removing a smaller amount of material each pass. To avoid snipe, set the feed rate on a two-speed planer to a slower speed. Using a support stand to hold long boards is a good idea. Temporary runners can be removed after planing.

Lighter passes will also reduce the amount of snipe, which is the line that is left on a workpiece after a cutting pass. A planer will produce snipe as the board lifts up into the cutter head and only one pressure roller is holding it down. You can see an example of this problem in the graphic below. The cutterhead is at the center of the machine and the pressure rollers are on the outside.

When using a planer as a jointing machine, you should try to reduce the amount of snipe by using a scrap piece of wood. The scrap should be approximately 300mm long. A light pass will be minimal snipe if you do not use a scrap board. Using a scrap board will minimize snipe if it is of the right length and width.

A jointer with a single jointer and thickness-planers may not be able to prevent snipe. Some woodworkers may even believe that a planer from the bottom will reduce snipe. In fact, there are several factors that affect snipe. Lighter passes also reduce snipe and are more efficient. If you are using a jointer to make joints, you may want to consider a solid benchtop planer.

Orienting the board so the knives rotate in the same direction as the slope of the grain

If you’re using a jointer, you’ll want to make sure the blades rotate in the same direction as the slope of each face. When you do this, you will prevent a bond failure – the edge of a piece breaks away from another piece. When you use a jointer, the wood’s edges are joined together. You’ll see this in a book-folded piece of wood.

Orient the board so that the knives rotate in the same direction as the grain when using a planer as your jointer. This helps you create more even cuts while using less energy. To learn how to orient the board properly, use an illustration of a lawnmower to help understand this. Pushing the lawnmower uphill would result in uneven cuts and would be difficult to do.

Using a bench plane is a simpler and cheaper way to smooth out larger boards. It’s a hand-held version of a thickness plane and comes with a wooden handle called a tote. The bench dog fits into a dog hole in a woodworking bench and has an inch sticking out. You can edge clamp larger boards using the bench dog.

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When using a planer as a jointers, you can use the abrasive shape to smooth out the edges. This is the most common way to remove wood that has figure. The most common types of figures are curl and quilt. These features can dramatically raise the price of wood. In addition, if you want a grain-free board, you can use a file to shave the wood. Files can be coarse, smooth, or large. They also do a good job of removing wood quickly.

The most important thing when using a planer as a joiner is to make sure that the blades rotate in the same direction as the grain of the wood. Otherwise, it will result in uneven cuts. To avoid this, you can place the board at the right height to get the most accurate result. By ensuring that you have the right tool, you’ll be well on your way to a better-looking board.

Why trust Handyman.Guide?

s written by Itamar Ben-Dor, who has 25 years of experience in renovations, carpentry, locks, creation, landscaping, painting, furniture construction, and furniture renovation, works with concrete, plumbing, door repair, and more.

Itamar Ben-Dor has been in the home improvement business for over 25 years. Itamar Ben-Dor is a jack of all trades. He's worked in the renovation field for years, doing everything from locksmithing to carpentry. He's a small repairs specialist. But his true passion lies in furniture construction and renovation - he loves seeing old pieces come back to life with some new woodwork or a fresh coat of paint.

He has taken courses on many topics in these fields at professional colleges in Israel. Over the years, Itamar has also become quite skilled in gardening, carpentry, and renovations. He's worked on projects of all sizes, from massive renovations to small repairs. No job is too big or too small for him!


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